“I think the only way that any of us can ever be happy is to let it all hang out… and you know… fuck it.”
So the breathy voice in the background spoke as the sassy models at Ashish Fall 2015 made their way down the runway in patent red boots, in lingerie, in sequins. Inspired by, “high-class hookers who only dress for themselves" the show oozed tacky sensuality. However, there seemed to be an overriding theme that was more tragic and sympathetic than a Donnatella Versace creation. The look was simultaneously seductive, melancholy and powerful; a strange contrast that came about via a combination of silk underwear, slip dresses and military prints. Ashish’s signature streetwise look also came across, helping to translate the inspiration behind the collection. The clothes themselves were young, fun and attention grabbing, another quintessentially Ashish feature. It seemed to celebrate the artistic diversity of young London.
Ashish’s provocative tragedy was made up of thigh-high boots, slip dresses, lingerie, fur and lots of sequins. The thrift-store parkas added a street wise, unkempt vibe and balanced out the over the top luxury of the fur and sequin combos. The vulnerability expressed through the collection's skimpy pieces is emphasised through its inspiration, the film Klute; a crime thriller in which Jane Fonda stars as a prostitute helping a detective solve a missing person's case. However, in contrast to this sense of near helplessness is the strong military vein than runs through the collection in the appearance of army prints and bulky jackets. This definitely introduces a defiance which is maintained with the streetwise independence portrayed throughout.
It could be argued that Ashish's Fall 2015 collection was an exploration of feminity; its seductive charms and defiant strength paralleled with its fragility and vulnerability. The clothes exude confidence, even if the context veils this with a haunted shadow, with materials stitched together giving off a punk attitude. Overall, the collection's dishevelled beauty showed a sympathetic attitude towards both sex and luxury; two elements that are so non-ironically omnipresent throughout fashion week.
Images from style.com and New York Times. Screencaps from Klute.