Saturday, 27 September 2014

with a kiss i'd pass the key

I still have some outfits that I wore over the summer that I have not yet posted. I will stagger them out over the next few weeks and hopefully upload some more recent outfits that are more weather appropriate soon. It is not truly autumnal yet so nude tights are wearable without freezing your legs off. I wore a t-shirt without a jacket when I went on a walk today, so I guess that my summer looks do not seem too foreign at this time of year.

I haven't posted any outfits of mine in over a month. School is busy and by the time I get home I look such a mess and I'm too hot and tired to set up the tripod and take photos. I've been back at school for 3 weeks now and I like being back to the routine, though I wish I had more time for keeping up with fashion month. I've spent most of my time writing essays, listening to "Horses" by Patti Smith and checking
This weekend is the first completely free weekend I've had since returning to school. I had a horror film marathon last night and I've finished the 6th issue of my zine. I will be scanning it and uploading it to Etsy tomorrow. It is the last issue of the year and I'm sad that it is over. I definitely would not have time to continue publishing monthly issues on top of A Levels, uni applications and running the school magazine though. I've been going on lots of runs lately to clear my head and de-stress. I recently went to see the Old Vic production of "A Streetcar Named Desire" at the cinema. I had never seen a theatre show at the cinema before. It was really well done because there was a revolving in the round stage which meant we got to see the stage from all different angles. It was a lot easier to catch subtle movements because the camera zoomed in so we got the equivalent of a front row view.
Next weekend I'm going to the Saatchi Gallery to see an exhibition of photographs of Coco Chanel's apartment. Although I have studied similar photographs in the various biographies I have, it will be lovely to see every section of the apartment and view it in the same space as I saw the Little Black Jacket exhibition two years ago.

I started reading Jane Eyre last week. I thought that I would find it really difficult to get into but I have been getting through it quite quickly and I love it. I used to not have a particular fondness for anything written pre-20th century (other than Oscar Wilde) but reading "Wuthering Heights" earlier this year was magical and Jane Eyre is turning out to be similarly enticing. I also like how the most famous female writers were around in that era. Although their novels were originally published under male pseudonyms, the Brontes and Jane Austen are probably the most famous female writers of all time, yet works by women did not get such widespread and timeless recognition until the second half of the 20th century and even then they were still very much overshadowed by their male counterparts. I read this today, so I have been thinking about it a lot.

My hat, sunglasses and necklace are all from Primark. If I ever go in there it's only for accessories because hello £2 sunglasses. Top and jacket are both from Pull & Bear. I got them from Portugal and I am going back to the same place next month. My skirt is from New Look. My socks are Topshop and shoes from Rocketdog. 
I hope that you all have a good week. I will review the Private Apartment of Mademoiselle Chanel exhibition soon. I HAVE JUST SEEN COMME DES GARCONS' LATEST COLLECTION OMG COLLECTIVE GASP GUYS. Tell me what you think of it in the comments!!!

Wednesday, 24 September 2014

i don't speak italian and i don't speak moschino either

Last week Jeremy Scott was praised for making fashion fun and energetic. However, for every person who thought that Moschino's Barbie-inspired Spring 2015 collection was fun, there were at least five who hated it. After Jeremy Scott's McDonald's inspired debut for Moschino, critics and fans have been divided. Whilst Scott has a growing, loyal fan base and has been widely successful on social media, many believe his collections to be tacky and tasteless. Though you could argue that that is the point. Here's a look through Scott's work for Moschino so far, starting with last Thursday's Milan Fashion Week show.

Despite looking the accurate embodiment of Barbie, logomania is tacky enough without being placed on such a sickly shade of pink. This outfit looks like it would be worn by someone who talks non-stop about going to the gym all the time but never actually does any serious exercise once they're there.

Roller skates on a runway are a sure fire way to have the audience on edge. When Kendall Jenner struggles to even make her way down the runway in heels, it's not difficult to imagine why. This look was kind of cute but Charlotte Free's wobble at the end of the runway is so uncomfortable.

When I was 6 years old my favourite song was Steps' 5678. This look reminds me of that song. Need I say more?

Underwear as outerwear only works when Jean Paul Gaultier does it and it definitely does not work over skirt suits. It looks like something a young child would create in a doll template book. But even a child wouldn't choose such ugly, garish colours.

Slogans saying the stupidest things are everywhere at the moment, so nothing original here. I cannot think of a colour less punk than yellow. Consequently, I can't think of a worse colour for a biker jacket (except perhaps vomit green.) The belt looks like a rope used to separate swimming pool lanes.

Pink tracksuits? EW, NO. Quilted fabric? EW, NO. The shade of pink and the chain embellishments make it worse. It looks like something a character from Shameless might wear.

I HATE it when brands rip off Chanel suits in such a terrible fashion. Not only is that horrible quilted fabric repeated, but the suit looks like it is genuinely ill-fitting. It looks like a teenage fashion experiment gone wrong and not in a cool Tavi Gevinson kind of way.

However, this was not Jeremy Scott's first attempt at ruining Moschino and getting himself fired. In Fall 2014 he took just as bold a shot at it by making a collection about McDonalds his debut at a luxury Italian fashion brand. Great...

I swear Primark did a jumper like this a few years ago. Cool.

Unwearable catwalk gowns are my favourites, but these are literally so unwearable. Not to mention that if you ate crisps and cheese snacks all the time you wouldn't be able to fit into a sample size designer gown.


Remove the snapback, all the jewellery and the gold tips off the shoes and this look is passable. Here there is too much gold.

At first glance, this look is okay. Then you spot the underwear. Wear these shimmery tracksuit bottoms low enough to show off your tacky Moschino underwear. You know you want to. Even Jourdan Dunn can't make this look appear desirable.

In between these two atrocities we have Resort 2015 which was actually rather cute. Jeremy Scott said that he values first impressions more than detailed analysis. responded to this with their first impressions of this collection. Now I'm going to do the same.

1. Wow. Moschino can actually be kind of chic.

2. (Following 3 similar looks) Ripping of Chanel a bit. It does look gorgeous though.

3. Elizabeth Jane Bishop?  

4. My mum and I used to wear printed denim like this in the '90s. 

 5. Reminds me of the outfits I wear to school minus the bare stomach because that is ILLEGAL @ school.

6. I bought a shirt like this in a charity shop in the summer holidays. 

7. I'd rather have real money.

Jeremy Scott's first menswear collection was young and upbeat without being too tacky. Many of the models liked it so much that they asked if they could take the clothes home with them.

Is that what the fashion kids wear to rugby training?

The beauty of the stripe is that it can create a gorgeously minimalistic aesthetic. However, Jeremy Scott is not into gorgeous minimalism. This look comes across as clumsy and messy.

The womenswear pieces in the collection were amongst the best looks. They were fun, fresh and really wearable. Though still more high street than high fashion, there is something endearingly loveable about clothes like these.

Brown leather jackets are always a bit risky because they do not carry the same nonchalant coolness as the black leather jacket, but paired with orange trousers it looks downright disastrous.

If Cher Horowitz was a boy, this is what he would have worn in Clueless. 

So, is Jeremy Scott tapped into the minds of our consumer driven generation or is he just creating tacky collections of tacky clothes? Is he making Moschino relevant again or ruining the reputation of the brand? Where is the line drawn between tacky and iconic?

Wednesday, 17 September 2014

the boys with the most cake: a modern history of meadham kirchhoff

Meadham Kirchhoff is one of my favourite fashion houses, if not my favourite. Their designs are idiosyncratic and limitlessly creative. Although everything looks very pretty there is usually a further purpose than that. Meadham Kirchhoff is the only fashion house that comes to mind when I think about designers that consistently produce collections that have a somewhat political agenda. Although it sounds like a stark contrast, it is also a very teen oriented brand and the main objective is to have FUN. Because believe it or not, teenagers can actually be interested in ISSUES and POLITICS etc!! Shocking!! I know!! Meadham Kirchhoff has inspired a legion of teenage fans to turn fashion into an outlet for creativity. 

Spring 2011

Beneath the creative, experimental teen queen rainbow hair vibes was a thought out message about female empowerment. Inspired by Courtney Love, PJ Harvey and the riot grrrl movement, the pastel pinks and frills were an attack on traditional femininity and the generically wearable "ladylike" dresses that designers send down the runway just to please buyers. It is easy to see the Courtney Love influence in making pretty clothes into a somewhat angry statement. Channelling femininity in such blunt terms is empowering and the collection has been described as a "call to arms" for girls and women everywhere to reclaim what it means to be female on their own terms. 

Favourite Looks

Fall 2011

This collection possessed a toned down simplicity not seen amongst the rainbow hair and frills in Spring 2011. However, the basic colour palette did not hinder the use of frills or the genderless philosophy. All the models lined up close together before the show and all came onto the runway at the same time, walking quickly, close together, in single file down the runway. They came back for one more fast paced march, then the show was over. The focus was on uniformity, which also brings to mind conformity. The show could appear to be making a point about the line of production and/or it could also be pointing out that it is difficult to get noticed if you dress like everyone else. Editors and photographers were shocked at the lack of time they had to get a proper look at the clothes as they whizzed past. 

Favourite Looks 

Spring 2012

I will always be deeply fond of this collection because it was the one that introduced me to Meadham Kirchhoff. I had never seen or heard of a fashion show quite like it before. Now more than ever it is clear that designers are always trying to upstage one another to gain social media monopoly throughout fashion week. However, when I watched those Courtney Love ballerinas dancing in the centre of the runway, I felt so excited about the possibilities that fashion shows can hold. It is said that this collection had showgoers virtually in tears, and I can understand why. Addressing the same themes as Spring 2011 in a more developed manner, Meadham Kirchhoff's signature frills and childlike motifs made this show ICONIC. 

Favourite Looks

Fall 2012

This was one of Meadham Kirchhoff's more fun collections. However, the punk attitude was still there, buried in with the fun. What better way to rebel against society and its flaws than not letting it get you down? Although pieced together in bravely outlandish creations, the collection contains a number of pieces that would be highly wearable if styled in slightly different ways. Dyed fur jackets and sparkly tights can become a statement piece in any outfit that may be feeling slightly plain.

Favourite Looks 

Spring 2013

This was their most opulent and extravagant collection. And that is what the collection was about: opulence and extravagance. Note the gold and jewel embellishments, the heavy jewellery and the gold embroidery. Luxury is the focus here and, although over the top at times, it works. The collection avoids looking obnoxiously pretty or clichĂ© through using clashing prints and fabrics. The consistent colour scheme is the only thing that avoids it looking messy.  

Favourite Looks

Fall 2013

The colours in this collection are much easier on the eye. Its restriction to almost entirely to black and white is one of its main strengths. The lace embellishments and frills no longer seem sickeningly sweet. Instead they take on a darker Miss Havisham-esque tone. I would like the guests at my funeral to dress in Fall 2013 Meadham Kirchhoff. Overall there is a definite aura of death and mourning, but it has been made into something beautiful. 

Favourite Looks

Spring 2014

This collection was achingly beautiful. The hair in ringlets suggested a classical beauty reflected by the garden setting. This clashed with the shiny jackets thrown carelessly over the top of pretty dresses, giving everything a punk attitude. The witchy vibes connect to this because supposed witches were pretty punk for daring to act differently to what was expected. Unfortunately it didn't go so well for them...

Fall 2014

On first impressions, a lot of these looks seem as though they would look more in place at a tween party than on a London Fashion Week runway. However, there are some complexly beautiful designs towards the end of the collection. The veiled chiffon dresses are far from a mismatched experiment from a raid of your mother's wardrobe. They have an individual creative flair. 

Most of the pieces were pretty but nothing spectacular. The Chanel influence is more prominent here than any of the past collections. Oversized bouclé wool suits and dresses gave the collection an amateur grown up look that seemed slightly out of place given the setting. It is really interesting seeing such a modern visionary brand take such direct inspiration from such an old and well-established institution as Chanel. I love seeing two of my favourite brands coming together.

Favourite Looks

Spring 2015

Last, and probably least as well, is Tuesday's collection. The outfits here look a bit of a mess. They are all over the place. Despite this, Meadham Kirchhoff is back to its original, political self with bloody tampons as accessories, make up on boys and no make up on some of the girls and street casting models. 

The fact that the models were street casted with most of them having no previous modelling experience did make the brand seem youthfully democratic, showing that that part of its image is not just for show. I do think that it left it a little lacking at times though. Perhaps if the pieces had been closer to resembling one of their "pretty" collections it would have worked, but overall, it had a frumpy effect. I guess that was the point though. When the invitations to the show are written on the back of a postcard that tells you to "Reject Everything!" you would be disappointed with anything less. This anti-fashion look works if you put it into that perspective. 

My criticisms would suggest otherwise, but the ideas in this collection are really in line with how I feel about getting dressed and the sartorial choices that I make. There is a certain thrill in dressing outside of "the rules" and I've found that it is quite effective at annoying the more close-minded of people.

Favourite Looks

In conclusion, Meadham Kirchhoff is a brilliant brand that reminds us every season why London is such a great fashion capital and why it is so wonderful to be young right now when fashion can have such an impact. Having looked at every collection, this is my judgement- THE BEST: Spring 2012, Fall 2013, Spring 2014 and THE WORST: Spring 2013, Spring 2015.

What are your favourite Meadham Kirchhoff collections?